A Come Back

Is the summer really over??  It sure is here in Norway.  Here are some reasons I'm excited for fall:

• The leaves are changing to their beautiful shades of yellow and orange
• Our house is really cozy when it's gray and dreary outside
• We like lighting fires in our fireplace 
• It's supposed to be cold in the fall/winter so it's not disappointing when it is
• Because we'll be here all winter, we might go shopping for real Norwegian outerwear - yippee!

We did do one last hike before the weather turned, and it was such a beautiful day.  

We hadn't been hiking in a while because of my knee.  I wasn't sure what happened on that hike in May when Jeff's sister was in town and my knee made a weird pop, but after a visit to a doctor and an MRI in August (this was an experience in and of itself) it turns out that I have a chondral lesion behind my patella (say what??).  Not exactly sure how it happened, but I was told that it could get better without surgery and to continue life as normal + pain killers. So, on with the hiking!

Next stop? Kjerag. Because a come back means going big or going home.

The hiking route to Kjerag

Though the drive out to Sirdal was sunny, our drive through the mountain pass to the base of Kjerag showed us we would be starting the hike in some fog.  Luckily, the first few hundred meters are practically straight up (did I say luckily?) so we rose above the clouds quickly and the sun burned them off.  

I would have kept on going, but Jeff wanted to take in the view (wimp).  

I also used this time to search for blueberries and actually found some!  They weren't the best I'd ever tasted but picking them myself did make them the most satisfying.  

Good thing my knee had some time to heal because this is definitely the hardest hike we've done.  It's 6 kilometers in length and a max incline of 380 meters so the 2.5 hours it takes to hike up and over to "the Bolt" is quite a workout.

At first I thought this would be similar to hiking Preikestolen, but I was pleasantly surprised.  It's opposite the same fjord yet the terrain is more mountainous because the hike starts at the same elevation that Preikestolen ends.  Hiking Kjerag also rewarded us with views of the fjord along the entire hike, rather than just at the peak.  And, though Preikestolen was a steadier incline throughout, Kjerag's intense climbs ended with wide valleys - very "the hills are alive" sort of surroundings.  Jeff loves it when I break out in song, so I just embraced the moment.

  

The major difference between Preikestolen and Kjerag?  The Bolt!

Few things can top the views from Preikestolen, but there's something about standing on a boulder wedged between two cliffs that makes you feel like you've really accomplished something.  We even found someone to take a picture of the two of us!  Jeff likes embracing the moment just as much as I do :)

Mom Visits Norway!

To my adoring fans (aka family) I'm sorry for my long absence!  Between our trip to London and this weekend, we have experienced some of the best and worst weather that Norway has to offer all while introducing our new home to our first three visitors!

Acting as host and hostess has kept Jeff and I on our toes and has made us realize that we have really come a long way in adjusting to our life here.

• The bathroom window is uncovered and right by the glass shower?  No matter, people can only see your face unless they try really hard to see more (we've tested this).  
• Need to do some laundry?  Watch your head as you crawl into our "dungeon".  
• Hands dirty?  Try not to scald yourself because that water can get H.O.T. 
• Oh, and those people outside with their cameras turned toward the house?  Those are just our friendly, temporary neighbors from the huge cruise ship docked at the harbor.

My mom was our very first visitor AND it was her first time to Europe! She is the perfect first guest because of her "what could be bad about this? I'm in Europe" attitude.  Good thing she was so positive too as gale force winds threatened to blow her back to Oklahoma.

Luckily, her second day was decent and allowed us a pleasurable hike to Manafossen and Man Farm.  Mom is always prepared and had bought hiking shoes before her visit and she was so glad she did!  Warm, dry feet make a girl happy.  She also used those chains like a champ (though, she was admittedly intimidated at first) and completed her first Norwegian hike in high spirits.

Since it was her first time to Europe, we made the most of it and spent a few days in Paris.  Not one of our hardest decisions!  

Even though this was my third time to visit, I always find something new that I love about this city.  This time it was the food*.  I know, I know - how did I not experience great food the first two times?  Answer: tour groups and college budget.  Don't go to Paris on a tight budget and definitely don't go to the restaurants with your whole tour group.  The former prevents you from going to the best brasseries (that really aren't THAT expensive) and the latter sets you up for pre-made, group friendly food.  Not this time! We indulged in wine, escargot, veal, and tarts - oh my!  Thanks Mom for such a fun trip! 

After leaving Paris (and wiping the tears from our eyes) we returned to Norway, in all its rainy glory.  Mom's last few days were filled with a scenic drive and celebrating Norway's independence.  Happy May 17th Norwegian friends!  And even though it was the coldest May 17th on record, the streets were filled with beautiful bunads-wearing Norwegians and the foreign population tough enough to brave the elements.  Did the weather slow down the locals?  Not one bit - smiles were seen on everyone's faces.

Mom eventually had to return home. And I was sad.  But then Jeff drove me to work amid the fjords and the mountains. And I was a little happier.  I'll live closer to her someday, but for now I'm going to enjoy my time in Norway, rain or shine.  I guess that Norwegian spirit is rubbing off on me after all. 

*Curious about where we ate and we thought of our experience?  I am adding reviews to TripAdvisor with username Audrey B! 

Preikestolen

In Norway, the Thursday, Friday, and Monday surrounding Easter are public holidays.  Very few shops are open and most people are traveling to visit their families. Flights and hotels were more expensive over this time period so we decided to stay around Stavanger.   It's rare that we have this much time off work with nothing planned and we definitely took advantage of it.  Thursday was a completely unproductive, lazy, not-even-worth-fixing-my-hair-or-putting-on-real-clothes day.  Oh how I love those every now and then.  

Turns out, our day of rest was needed because we spontaneously decided to hike Preikestolen the next day.  Our friend, Leif Christian, was around for the weekend and he was eager to come along.  Jeff and I would have been capable of making this hike on our own but it really is comforting (and fun!) to have Leif Christian as our "Norwegian Guide" as proven on our last hike.  Now, we know exactly where to catch the Stavanger ferry to Tau and how to make the short drive to the parking lot where the hike starts.  I was also able to practice my Norsk on him, which I'm sure he appreciated :)  The only thing missing was his lovely wife, Therese, who was visiting family up North.  Next time, though!

Because the hike starts at 270 moh (acronym for meters above sea level in Norwegian), I was already impressed by the views just 10 minutes into the hike.  But Preikestolen is 604 moh so we had more ground to cover. Onward and upward!

Before actually going on these hikes, I would wonder how on earth I would know where the trail was.  Norway, with its penchant for getting people outside, takes most of the guesswork out of this while still allowing room to explore.  Each season, a network of volunteers scours the country and marks trails with red T's along the most desirable route.  Hundreds and hundreds of trails.  That's dedication!  My last question is... what do we do if it snows?...  Bring Leif Christian!  

I had also read on sites like TripAdvisor that there were complaints about the lack of safety features (railings, paved trails etc) and was anxious to form my own opinion.  What I found was that even as a major tourist attraction, Preikestolen has not lost its fundamental draw - that it is nature. Wild, rocky, hilly, steep nature.  It's true that there are no railings to keep you from falling off the very top or along the trails which I think just serves as a reminder that nature isn't to be trifled with.  Get too close to the edge, you might fall. It's actually pretty humbling.

After two hours of semi-strenuous hiking (made more difficult by the surprise snowfall the night before) we made it.  And there really are no words.

What we learned: pack layers for every occasion (or bring options in the car) because the weather can change/vary just in one hike.  Start the hike early so that you are one of the only ones at the top.  Also, a hot drink like coffee is the perfect treat once you make it to the top.  Now, I just need a Thermos.

 This is a MUST for visitors to Norway!

Manafossen

Even though we made this hike over two weeks ago in less-than-ideal conditions, it was still so much fun that I couldn't wait any longer to share it!  We were very fortunate to be accompanied on this hike by two new friends - Leif Christian and Therese.  Leif Christian and I work together and the four of us were at a company ski trip that could have been a big bust (the weather was rainy and windy - not great skiing conditions) but it wasn't thanks to this fine couple!  Rather than go skiing for a second day, we packed up and headed out of Sirdal to Manafossen.  Here's a preview of some of the great scenery.

This is one of Norway's largest waterfalls and includes a great hike up and around it.  This whole area is really beautiful and could also include a stop to the candle factory in Byrkjedal.

I've decided that every "hike" I've been on prior to moving to Norway was really just a walk.  THIS is hiking. And our friends told us that it was an easy one too!  Pulling myself up the hill by a chain? Easy? I can't wait to see what is challenging!

Yes, I have on my ski pants and snow boots... I suspect those boots made the ascent a little more difficult   but this was an impromptu hike after all.  There is actually a sign at the beginning that warns against wearing high heels.  Now THAT would be an impromptu hiking outfit. 

We made it to the waterfall and it was well worth the effort!  

We kept hiking up and around and eventually made it to the mouth of the waterfall on the other side.  The views were wonderful and Man Farm could be seen from the top.  With more time, we probably would have continued our hike over there, but we saved it for another day better for a picnic!  Jeff quenched his thirst at the mouth of the waterfall. Don't worry - no sheep were seen upstream..

Two of my favorite spots - the bridge and the moss covered tree grove.  And you can see our friends in the blue and red jackets below! You better believe they had their hiking boots, rain gear, and trail snacks.  I've learned Norwegians are always ready for an outdoor adventure!  I might need to make a checklist...

We will definitely be making this hike again!