A Come Back

Is the summer really over??  It sure is here in Norway.  Here are some reasons I'm excited for fall:

• The leaves are changing to their beautiful shades of yellow and orange
• Our house is really cozy when it's gray and dreary outside
• We like lighting fires in our fireplace 
• It's supposed to be cold in the fall/winter so it's not disappointing when it is
• Because we'll be here all winter, we might go shopping for real Norwegian outerwear - yippee!

We did do one last hike before the weather turned, and it was such a beautiful day.  

We hadn't been hiking in a while because of my knee.  I wasn't sure what happened on that hike in May when Jeff's sister was in town and my knee made a weird pop, but after a visit to a doctor and an MRI in August (this was an experience in and of itself) it turns out that I have a chondral lesion behind my patella (say what??).  Not exactly sure how it happened, but I was told that it could get better without surgery and to continue life as normal + pain killers. So, on with the hiking!

Next stop? Kjerag. Because a come back means going big or going home.

The hiking route to Kjerag

Though the drive out to Sirdal was sunny, our drive through the mountain pass to the base of Kjerag showed us we would be starting the hike in some fog.  Luckily, the first few hundred meters are practically straight up (did I say luckily?) so we rose above the clouds quickly and the sun burned them off.  

I would have kept on going, but Jeff wanted to take in the view (wimp).  

I also used this time to search for blueberries and actually found some!  They weren't the best I'd ever tasted but picking them myself did make them the most satisfying.  

Good thing my knee had some time to heal because this is definitely the hardest hike we've done.  It's 6 kilometers in length and a max incline of 380 meters so the 2.5 hours it takes to hike up and over to "the Bolt" is quite a workout.

At first I thought this would be similar to hiking Preikestolen, but I was pleasantly surprised.  It's opposite the same fjord yet the terrain is more mountainous because the hike starts at the same elevation that Preikestolen ends.  Hiking Kjerag also rewarded us with views of the fjord along the entire hike, rather than just at the peak.  And, though Preikestolen was a steadier incline throughout, Kjerag's intense climbs ended with wide valleys - very "the hills are alive" sort of surroundings.  Jeff loves it when I break out in song, so I just embraced the moment.

  

The major difference between Preikestolen and Kjerag?  The Bolt!

Few things can top the views from Preikestolen, but there's something about standing on a boulder wedged between two cliffs that makes you feel like you've really accomplished something.  We even found someone to take a picture of the two of us!  Jeff likes embracing the moment just as much as I do :)

Praha and Wien

Our good friends, Jen and Dan, had set a date for their European vacation almost a year in advance (Jen is a fellow planner), so as soon as Jeffrey and I found out we would be living in Norway, we promised to visit them at one of their stops!  When we heard of all the great places they were going, we couldn't choose just one and finally decided to meet them in Prague and Vienna.  Jeffrey and I love exploring new cities but being able to experience it with great friends is even better!

Even though Prague and Vienna are only a 4 hour train ride from each other, the two cities couldn't be more different.  Even if I hadn't know of their histories, it wouldn't have been hard to guess that Prague and Vienna prospered at different times.  After a quick Wiki-search, the architectural terms I could use would be Gothic/Renaissance versus Baroque, but I don't think of those terms while I'm staring up at the Astrological Clock or the Hofburg Palace.  My first reaction is more of a feeling.  Prague's architecture is moodier, darker, more dramatic while Vienna's is fancier, cleaner, prettier (in my opinion, of course).  What do you think?

Another big difference was the atmosphere.  I felt like Prague's Old Town focused more on tourist gimmicks like crystal, garnet, and marionettes.  I'm not sure if this is related, but the atmosphere was looser, louder, and more fun.  Vienna had better retail, more cafes versus bars, and fewer peddlers.  The atmosphere in Vienna was calmer, classier, more predictable. 

Prague's crowded streets were filled with character while Vienna's beautiful parks and green spaces made the city feel more open, fresher.

Last but not least... the food!  If we had to choose a favorite place based on food, Prague would take home the gold (yes, I miss the Olympics..).  This surprised me, actually, because I didn't really know much about Prague's cuisine.  Here's what we found out - it focuses on meat (pork knuckle, beef goulash, sausage) and cheap beer - perfect!  I would have probably tired of it if we were there longer, but a few days was perfect.  And Jeff was in heaven.

Such a wonderful trip with the best friends anyone could ask for.  So glad we got to experience these two unique cities with you!

Traveling Tools

Jeffrey and I visited Prague and Vienna for the first time last week (pictures to come soon!).  This vacation had been dreamt about, planned out, and anticipated for months not only because we had never been to either place but because we met up with our very dear friends from Houston, Jen and Dan!

Preparing for a trip is almost as much as the trip itself.  It's true! Becoming familiar with a new city/country via articles, books, and maps is so much fun and it makes sightseeing easier.  Below are some of my essential planning tools for our travels.

1. Tripit: a website/iPhone app that I use to build my itineraries.  I can either manually enter information about my flights and hotels, or I can just forward my confirmation emails to the website and it is built automatically.  I just choose the type of information I want to add (transportation, activity, restaurant) and an easy-to-fill-out form asks for the essential information.  I even add times to my itinerary - not to force us into a schedule but to have a more realistic expectation of what we can see or where we can go in one day.  My favorite part is the Notes section where I can add TripAdvisor reviews, directions, or page references to my guidebooks.

Nerdy? Maybe. Handy? Definitely!  AND as long as I sync the app on my phone right before I leave, all of this information is available without internet.

2. CityMaps2Go: an app that gives you access to the most detailed street maps of any major city you could think of going to.  After I downloaded the app for just a few dollars, I just searched by country for the city I was visiting and downloaded (for free) that city's map.  Because this can be used without internet while travelling, it doesn't allow for GPS positioning but I've found the street finder tool works well if I get turned around.  My favorite function is pinning my own points of interest to the map so that I can find them on the go!

Via - this site has other great tips too!

3. A 4-digit PIN for my credit card:  Since I don't like using my debit card while abroad, I had a 4 digit PIN added to my credit card.  In Europe, credit cards are pretty much useless without a PIN!

4. Comfy shoes: I'm still trying to find the perfect shoe that doesn't make my feet/legs/back ache nor look like a running shoe.  I'm thinking that TOMS are the best option for me right now... but Joanna Goddard has a good list too.

Hours of sightseeing make a girl tired no matter what, though, so the best remedy is lots of cafe/pub breaks!

5. Frommers Day-by-Day and Rick Steves: I have yet to find guide books I like better than these.  The Day-by-Day books are great for a quick snapshot of top sites as well as neighborhood walks and restaurant ideas.  They are also small enough to carry around while touring.  Rick provides an overview of the city's history and culture plus more detail on the top sites and walking tours.  I buy his from Amazon or iBooks so I can reference them on my iPhone while we walk around (the books are generally too bulky).

These are just a few of the resources I use to plan a fun vacation.  Maybe they can help you out, too!

A Weekend BBQ

Turns out, a BBQ in Norway is pretty similar to a BBQ in the states.  My comparison may be a little off as there weren't any Norwegians in attendance... but two BBQers were Scottish. My point is - BBQs are fun no matter where you are!

Our friend's house is just on the other side of the harbor, so Jeff and I walked from our house.  Our neighborhood is bursting with roses!  Naturally, I stopped and smelled them.  Apparently, Jeff found this funny and took pictures.

As we passed the harbor, there was a crowd watching the water.  It wasn't until we were closer that we understood why.  We just never know what to expect on our walks around here...

We definitely need to try this out sometime, thought it's much harder to move across the water than it looks!  Pretty entertaining for all the people watching.  On second thought.. maybe I'll just watch Jeff do it.  We also saw the family of swans that live in the large pond next to the train station!

We finally made it to the BBQ before a search party was sent for us. We dined on hamburgers, hot dogs, ribs, salad and corn on the cob (courtesy of our host, Chris); cream-cheese-stuffed-jalapenos-wrapped-in-bacon (courtesy of the Burros) and s'mores (courtesy of Gillian and Steve).  No one had tasted jalapenos prepared like this before and they were a hit, making it totally worth the search at 5 different grocery stores for fresh jalapenos!  My favorite?

The s'mores!  They may be a little messy but they sure are tasty.  Gillian likes them too :)  Too bad this was the last BBQ in Norway for Gillian - she and Steve are moving to Perth!  Guess I'll just have to make my jalapenos when I go visit :)

Hope everyone has a great weekend! If not, make a s'more.. it will make it better instantly.

Pity Party

Though our recent guests (Jeff's parents and our good friend Matt) were welcome distractions for a few weekends, I'm going to give it to you straight..  I am a little put out with my new friend, Norway.

Like any new friendship, we've had our roles to play.  I was the new one in town and Norway introduced me to all these exciting places, promising me that it would fill the void caused by being so far from family and friends.  We both laughed at our different versions of appropriate prices and yummy cuisine.  I justified Norway's cold climate with reasons such as "It's still winter" or "Great excuse to wear my new boots.. again!"

Here's the deal.  It's July and I still wear a sweater AND a jacket 90% of the time because it's either raining or windy while hovering around 55 degrees.  I'm seriously lacking motivation in the kitchen after loads of cooking but still refuse to order takeout because of the outrageous prices. And, speaking of outrageous prices, Jeff and I took 7 pairs of pants to the dry cleaners and walked out with a $200 bill.  $200! I've discovered my Blackberry will never live up to the standards set by my iPhone.  Friends and family?  Still really, really far away.

Phew. Glad I got that out.

It would be really easy to blame this on Norway.  But Norway hasn't lied to me or betrayed me.  Our differences have just become more apparent (this explains most of it).  This happens with friends sometimes, but sometimes the best friendships arise from these circumstances.  So, instead of wishing that Norway was like home, I'll take one day at a time and continue to be grateful for this big adventure (and make a few extra phone calls to you guys back home - I'm homesick for you more than anything!).  Jeffrey and I agree - there are just too many pluses of knowing Norway to focus on what we miss.  What's so bad about a little rain when Europe is right at our fingertips?  Or the high prices when hiking in the mountains or walking along the harbor just outside our house is free?

Pity parties? Who needs 'em!  Well, except just this one...

Hytter

Commonplace in Norwegian life, second homes tucked away in a valley, overlooking a fjord, or amidst the mountains are called hytter (or, singularly, hytte).  I'm still impressed by the sheer number of families with personal acces to one, either by direct ownership or through family ties.  Hytte ownership is just part of the culture.  Of course there are plenty of websites to rent from too and most corporations rent a few to their employees.  We have taken advantage of a rental once before and recently stayed in our company's summer cabin with Jeffrey's parents.  I'm hooked!

Sometimes I chuckle at the thought of Norwegians needing to get "back to nature" since everything in Norway IS more natural than anywhere I've ever been.  There was a time, though, that a hytter with electricity or running water (let alone internet) was unheard of.  They still exist and can be sought out.. not necessarily by me due to my disdain for cold showers, or sponge baths as the case may be... but now most have the conveniences of home.  It's their remote locations and idyllic scenery that create the relaxed, simple atmosphere.  This may not be possible in every country/family, but it does inspire me to find more ways to simplify and enjoy the outdoors - a feeling I hope lasts longer than our stay here!  Below are just a few snapshots of hytter around Norway.


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